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Hello! Would you like to spend a day at a farmer's home?" That was the greeting from a young man as we stepped out of the car in a parking lot near the Baiquan Mountains, a scenic spot in Huairou County, 70 kilometres northeast of downtown Beijing.

"You will experience a real country life. You can enjoy the fresh vegetables and sweet spring," he said.

Out of curiosity we decided to have a look.

Following Zhao Debao on his motorcycle, we came to the village named Beitaizi. Featuring a mix of newly built brick houses and older stone homes, the small village looked no different from any others in North China.

It was noon and the village was quiet, except for the occasional singing of cicadas. Winding up a narrow path, we soon stood between two courtyards, one old and the other new. The young man ushered us into the new one. "Both belong to my family," said Zhao. "We stay at the old house while opening the new one for visitors."

As soon as I entered the courtyard I made up my mind to stay at least one night. It was a newly constructed typical rural house with the main quarter facing the south. It appeared cool, with a huge net covering the courtyard to shield it from the scorching sunshine.

"Welcome," said a young woman wearing an apron and holding a cooking spoon. Zhao said: "This is my wife Li Xiaohong."

We were also greeted by their 4-year-old son, Zhao Wenchuan, and a small dog named Benr Benr.

The courtyard was large enough to accommodate 30 people. Four of its eight rooms were already occupied by another two groups - one family of three and seven young people. There was also a well-equipped bathroom with solar energy.

We chose the room with a kang, a traditional brick bed in rural areas. Our group of four decided to share the same room, which saved us 60 yuan (US$7.2).

"Just feel at home," said the hostess.

Since it was lunch time we sat down and enjoyed our first meal, a simple but tasteful bowl of corn-powder porridge, along with a plate of vegetable salad containing the wild plants called xiancai and a plate of small fried fish.

According to Zhao, both the fish and the wild plants were collected in the spring and then frozen in the refrigerator. After we ordered a dish of egg plant, I saw Zhao go outside and return with two.

"I just picked them, very fresh," he said.

Zhao pointed to the fountain in the courtyard and said: "You can drink directly from it. It comes from the springs in the Baiquan Mountains."

Literally, Baiquan means 100 springs. I filled a cup and sipped. True, it tasted a little bit sweet. It seemed better than the mineral water we brought.

After lunch Zhao asked his daughter Zhao Rongjie, 10, to guide us to the river by the village. He suggested we go to the mountains the next morning. I later learned that the stream was where Zhao got those small fish.

Honestly speaking, the girl was not a very good guide, but she had a great talent for catching fish and frogs. Setting them free was another way she amused the guests.

When it was getting dark, we returned. Before supper I volunteered to follow Granny Zhao to pick corn in the fields. It was interesting to see that the limited space of about 130 square metres by the roadside was divided into several plots growing corn, maize, sweet potatoes, egg plants, tomatoes and beans - more than 10 different crops in all.

Granny Zhao, in her 70s, jumped into the cornfield in search of large cobs. After getting 16 pieces, the elderly woman and her little grandson carried the bag home, where they sat in front of the house and stripped the corn. "It tastes sweet," the old woman said. "I'll use the big wok to cook with wood so it gets its full flavour."

She was right. The corn tasted really sweet and fresh, and had a delicious smell. It was neither too hard nor too tender. I took two large cobs, but could eat no more because I had to save room for the baked rainbow trout, fresh from the spring. With another plate of wild plant salad and a dish of sauteed newly-picked huzi, a cucumber-like vegetable, I was full.

After such a big meal I felt I must do some exercises, so I went for a stroll around the village.The stars twinkling in the sky looked brighter and larger than what I saw in the city, and the shadows of the distant Baiquan Mountains looked lofty and scary in the moonlight.

That night it was hard for me to fall asleep. One reason was that I had too much to eat, but also the kang was too hard and made my back ache. I turned from left to right, trying to find a comfortable position. I kept telling myself next time I'll choose the room with sofa beds.

I was awakened early by the sound of vegetables being cut up. It was Li, starting to prepare our breakfast. That's not the way I expected a rural morning to start. It should have been some living things waking me up. I lied there and waited for the call of a rooster, but to no avail.

I had a fresh egg for my breakfast, newly plucked by Li from her small henhouse. It seemed that the villagers raised only chicken, not roosters.

It was a sunny day, and we took a morning stroll into the village, seeing the crops bathing under the sunshine. I took a deep breath to take in the fresh air and the smell of earth. Smoke curled from chimneys of the old houses, and the tranquility was only interrupted by the barking of dogs.

As planned we went hiking in the Baiquan Mountains in the morning, and after three hours we returned to Zhao's home.

When we entered the courtyard the hostess asked: "Are you tired? Lunch will soon be ready." At that moment all of us felt that we really were at "home."

Travel tips

Drive eastward along the 111 inter-state highway, or take Bus 936 at Dongzhimen Long-distance Bus Station, get off at Baiquanshan Scenic Spots. Beitaizi Village is about 300 metres east of the mountain.

It usually costs 60 yuan (US$7.2) for a night in one room, with two to five beds. You can bargain with the owner. For three or four people, it's good enough to spend 200 yuan (US$24.2) for two days, including one night and four meals.