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Phoenix Perches on Tuojiang River


5-Mar-2002 -
A trip to Hunan helps you sense the poetic romance of one Chinese writer A friend told me that for beautiful and tranquil scenery, you must go to Fenghuang County (Phoenix County) in the west part of Hunan Province. Taking his advice, I kicked off my year with a journey there, and discovered that his advice was absolutely right. Fenghuang, a small county populated by people of both the Tujia and Miao minorities, is the right place for a big city person to recharge their batteries - no ringing alarm bells, no crowded trains and no demanding work. I recommend that you spend time relaxing in one of the area's small quiet teahouses, where a cup of tea is accompanied by a beautiful view of the river and nearby mountains. Strolling along Fenghuang's narrow streets is another leisurely way to pass the time. You can shop for novelties such as silver ornaments and local garments, while forgetting the madness of crowded department stores on Shanghai's Huaihai Lu. Even the most amateur of photographers can snap perfect shots in this idyllic place. Just focus your lens on the wooden houses built along the river, the women in beautiful clothes and the zigzag lanes, the results will be most professional. writer's hometown Actually, Fenghuang would only be another ordinary town, if it weren't for Shen Congwen, a famous writer. Most of Shen's stories take place in Fenghuang, which was his hometown. In Shen's fiction, he writes about the rough country justice, military barbarity and the uncertainties of the warlord period. He also dwells on the subjects of intellectual malaise, family life, change, childhood and adolescence, and the contrast between city and village life. Though Shen died in 1988, his fiction is still favoured by the romantically minded. Since, Shen paints Fenghuang as a misty place of romantic love affairs. Must-see sites Modern Fenghuang may not live up to Shen's poetic prose, but there are six sites you definitely cannot miss. The first is the market along the Tuojiang River, where people of the Miao minority shoulder baskets of red peppers, fresh peaches and yellow tobacco. Walking through the market, I spotted an old woman selling cloth that women use as an ornamental wrapping for hair. I was fascinated to watch her plying her trade to the many young girls eager for her wares. Moving on, we headed to the second must for visitors - the area along the river where women wash clothes. Washing clothes in clean water with the warm sunshine on your back is really enjoyable. It was an experience not at all like work, and much better than washing clothes in the crowded apartments of Shanghai. The third stop on our itinerary was the outdoor restaurant along the Tuojiang River. The food here was very different from Shanghai. So we eagerly accepted suggestions from local people, as we both dined and enjoyed the beautiful environment. Completing our delicious meal, we headed for the ancient stage. Once the venue for traditional performances, this place is now a gathering place for local artists. Most of them come to this spot from around the country. They gather here just to find inspiration in the local folk customs and nature scenes. Watching them paint or listening to their lively discussions is quite intriguing. The fifth stop was a barber-shop, which displayed a sign written by Huang Yongyu, a famous painter. The barber there is said to be skilled at giving massages. We did not have time to test the claim. Finally, we headed for the scenic spots mentioned in every travel guide book - the local temples and pavilions. Honestly speaking, they were not as interesting as the slices of real local life.
5-Mar-2002 -

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