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Spring into sightseeing


08-May-2012 - Global Times
Spring into sightseeing
Photos: CFP

Shanghai is a delightful city in spring, but those in the know take the opportunity to use the season to visit some of the delights of the suburbs, the neighboring towns and the cities in the Yangtze River Delta region. It's a good time to give yourself some taste treats for around the metropolis can be found some of the most delicious and exciting foods in all of China.

Accidental recipes

The famous West Lake, "Heaven on Earth," is found in Hangzhou, the capital city of Zhejiang Province, 170 kilometers from Shanghai and a mere 40 minutes away by fast train.

The lake is divided by causeways and is sprinkled with islands, temples, pagodas and classical ornate gardens and it attracts thousands of visitors every year.

Some of the dishes to seek here include West Lake vinegar fish, Dongpo meat, Longging shrimp, Beggar's chicken, deep-fried curd rolls, braised bamboo shoots and West Lake water shield soup.

Vinegar fish dates back more than 800 years and, according to legend, came about by accident. In the Southern Song Dynasty (1127-1279) a woman poured vinegar into a pot by mistake when she was cooking some fish. When she tasted the dish it turned out to be delicious and became popular with her family and her neighbors. A visiting emperor heard about this and asked for the woman to cook him some of this fish. He enjoyed the dish so much he rewarded her with gold.

Dongpo meat is named after the famous writer and calligrapher of the Song Dynasty (960-1279), Su Dongpo. The story goes that when Su Dongpo was the leader of Hangzhou, citizens sent a gift of pork and wine to him to thank him for his work. He refused to accept the gift and told his chef to cook the food and give it to the workers. The chef misheard and cooked the pork with the wine and so was born today's famous Dongpo meat.

"Heaven on Earth" is a special part of the world and the unique food here helps make it even more special.

Jolly jerky

Jingjiang city is in the middle of Jiangsu Province, a 90-minute drive from Shanghai. Famous for its temples and temple fairs, Jingjiang's Gushan Temple is especially notable.

Around the end of March every year it has an important temple fair. Jingjiang is also home to the oldest temple to honor Yue Fei, a famous military general from the Southern Song Dynasty.

Jingjiang is famous for its delicious sweet pork jerky. In flat thin sheets, Jingjiang pork jerky is made to a special recipe and with unique techniques that have been passed down since the food was first created. One of the oldest brands was founded in 1936.Although the technology to make the modern version has been updated over the years, the tender chewy texture of the meat remains as seductive and delightful as ever.

Fruitful fun

Qingpu district is in the west of Shanghai and Zhaotun village in Qingpu is a center for strawberry farms which allow visitors to pick their own in the summer months. It will cost between 30 and 40 yuan ($4.75 to $6.34) a kilogram to pick your own strawberries and makes for a great day out for families and friends. The friendly farmers will give you tips to help you gather as many of the delicious fruits as possible.

Remember that it is better to go picking on a sunny day; wear light comfortable clothes because the hothouses are very warm inside; bring mineral water so that you can wash some of pickings immediately and taste the freshest fruit ever, and don't forget to bring sun cream and insect repellent.

After you have collected your baskets of strawberries, set out to explore some of the nearby attractions, like Zhujiajiao, the best preserved ancient water town in Shanghai. It boasts some wonderful bridges, temples, old streets and gardens, including the Grand View Garden which is based in design on a garden described in Cao Xueqin's A Dream of Red Mansions, one of the four classical Chinese novels. Shanghai's Grand View Garden was opened in 1988 and was awarded the Luban Prize for design.

A shining pearl

Taihu Lake is a large lake in the Yangtze River Delta plain, on the border of Jiangsu and Zhejiang provinces. The lake is set mostly in Jiangsu Province although its southern shore lies on the boundary between the two provinces. Covering 2,250 square kilometers with its waters running at an average 2 meters deep, it is the third largest freshwater lake in China. On the lake visitors can explore the Sanshan Islands (the Three Hill Islands), now the shining pearl of Taihu Lake but once a hideout for bandits. Climb to view the amazing natural rock formations which, over millions of years, have assumed the shapes of the animals of the Chinese zodiac.

The delights of Taihu Lake extend to the fishermen's daily catches. The local cuisine uses the riches of the lake, fish, shrimps, crabs and soft-shelled turtles in delicious simple dishes, often just steamed, braised or fried with a few herbs or served with scrambled eggs. Famous dishes feature steamed white fish, whitebait and scrambled eggs. It is one of life's great experiences to spend time on the lake in a boat while you sample the food. This is a rare delight.

Dumpling delights

Jiaxing is in the northeast of Zhejiang Province, 100 kilometers from Shanghai, a mere half hour by train. Jiaxing is famous for its scenery and ancient towns. The South Lake in Jiaxing is one of the leading scenic spots in China. Look out here for some of the famous ancient water towns like Xitang and Wuzhen, often described as the most attractive towns in China.

The traditional food in Jiaxing is zong zi, (Chinese rice dumplings). Glutinous rice and pork are wrapped in leaves and make a delicious treat neither too salty nor too sweet and easy to eat. The pork version is the most popular and is known locally as the "the king of the zong zi."

The most famous brand name for Jiaxing zong zi is Wufangzhai which has been producing the treats for more than 80 years. It offers more than 100 flavors of zong zi, including savory delights with pork and chicken fillings and sweet versions with red bean paste and peanut fillings.

Every year early in summer, Jiaxing hosts a zong zi festival. Zong zi producers from all over China gather there to take part in zong zi wrapping demonstrations, banquets, dragon boat races and visits to the zong zi museum.

Take time out to visit one or two of the ancient towns where the pace of life slows and it is easy to get lost in time strolling by the waterways. Take some zong zi with you to add to the enjoyment.

A great catch

Jiangyin city is famous for its fish especially its hilsa herrings, dao yu and puffer fish. Jiangyin is found to the north of Wuxi city, in Jiangsu Province, 150 kilometers from Shanghai.

Hilsa herrings are often called the "the kings of fish." They swim to the Yangtze River to breed in June and return to the sea in October. The fish follows this timetable constantly every year and is never late or early which is why the Chinese call it shi yu, the "time fish." Hilsa herrings are rich in omega 3 fatty acids which research suggests helps lower cholesterol levels and balances insulin levels in the body.

Dao yu (the Pacific saury or mackerel pike), which literally means knife fish in Chinese, are skinny and do look like knives. They are very tasty and nutritious but they have to be eaten at the right time. When they are first available in the markets they can fetch as much as 6,000 yuan a kilogram and every year the prices rise. But after the Qingming Festival in April, the flesh of the fish changes, becomes coarser and less tasty. Then the fish can be bought for as little as 200 yuan for a kilogram. Dishes to look for include steamed dao yu, fried shredded dao yu and double skin dao yu.

Puffer fish tastes divine but there is a problem - its liver and other organs can be highly toxic. Once tasted it is hard to forsake so the saying it is "a fish to die for" is quite relevant. There is no problem if the fish is processed properly - the chefs who cook this delicacy are highly trained and know how to remove the toxins from the fish.

As well as the fish treats Jiangyin has a lot of attractions. Look for the former residence of the geographer Xu Xiake from the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644), the famous ancient Confucius Temple, the memorials to Liu Bannong, the pioneer of the New Culture Move-ment, and Liu Tianhua, the grandmaster of modern music. Set aside a couple of days to enjoy the sights and tastes of Jiangyin.
08-May-2012 - Global Times

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