One of Lamma Island's charming waterfront areas Photo: CFP
This week's destination
There is one place in
Hong Kong that is a true escape from the screaming traffic and the luxurious allure of modern society, even in the face of tragedy. Lamma Island, also known as Pok Liu Chau, maintains a relaxed and tranquil atmosphere no matter what happens in the outside world.
Popular destination
I visited the island two days after the tragic boat accident that occurred on October 1, the first day of the National Day holiday, when a ferry bound for Lamma Island crashed into another boat, killing 39 people.
I wondered whether tourists and locals would be spooked by the tragic incident and avoid going to Hong Kong's third-largest island during the holiday.
My doubts were put to rest as I neared the pier in central Hong Kong, which was flooded with people by noon.
Hong Kong's public transit system makes it very convenient to access the pier, which is only a few minutes' walk from the city's most prominent building, the International Finance Center. Ferries leave for Lamma Island every 20 minutes starting at 6:30 in the morning on weekdays, and 7:30 on weekends and public holidays.
There are two piers on Lamma Island: Yung Shue Wan and Sok Kwu Wan. The two are connected by a slightly difficult-to-find path since signage is unclear in some parts of the island's mountainous areas. But this simply provides hikers with a little more adventure as they explore the beautiful island scenery.
After the approximately 40-minute boat trip, I safely arrived at Yung Shue Wan. The first thing I noticed was the scores of bicycles, most of which were very old, that lined the pier. It was clear that they weren't rentals for tourists but rather owned by locals, which I found charming, as it is hard to imagine that residents of
Hong Kong still ride bikes every day. I immediately had the sense that life on Lamma Island was much more traditional than that on
Hong Kong Island, which was only three kilometers away.
The next thing I noticed was the yellow and white flowers along the road, placed to mourn the victims of the ferry accident.
Trekking through paradise
Hiking is one of the best attractions of Lamma Island and a beautiful way to take in the natural landscapes and breathtaking views. Since the island is the hometown of local legend and international movie star Chow Yun-fat, hikers have an added incentive to explore the lush greenery and beaches: It is said that the famous actor's family still operates a seafood and pigeon restaurant called Shau Kee in the main village.
Though I didn't have time to visit the restaurant, I saw Chow's image almost everywhere I went. Posters at the pier describe Lamma Island in the eyes of the superstar, and windows of cottages, veiled in the mist and trees on the hilltops, proudly display residents' pictures taken with the star.
As a big fan of Chow, I loved imagining how this place influenced him and made him turn from an ordinary boy into an international superstar.
The island's most popular trek takes hikers from Yung Shue Wan to Sok Kwu Wan. The journey takes three hours if you don't stop along the way, but you'll get the most out of the hike if you pause at different spots to take in the beauty of the scenery as you go along.
Most of the island's local seafood restaurants are located in Yung Shue Wan, as are shops that sell souvenirs geared toward Lamma's history and wildlife. In comparison to most wares that are made for tourists, which are often cheap, souvenirs on Lamma Island are a little expensive, but the products are made by local designers and have a unique style.
With a population of 6,000, Lamma Island shields its residents with lush vegetation. Visitors will seldom see a resident while hiking in the hills, even if they step into islanders' courtyards to snap a quick picture of the sea.
The colors of the island's flora present themselves in striking contrast to each other. I loved the purple-centered flowers that spread to delicate pink tips at the ends of the petals. Beneath the flowers, the plant's leaves were so green that they looked like they had been polished with wax. White wind turbines stood on top of the hills, waving hello to visitors and boats passing by the island.
Three Tin Hau temples, dedicated to the goddess of the sea, are located on the island, drawing many believers who pray to the deity for the safety of their families, especially those working on the sea.
I was startled by the lion statues in front of the Tin Hau temple in Yung Shue Wan, which bore a striking resemblance to Disney movie hero the Lion King. But later I learned that this was a result of the East meeting the West. According to Hong Kong's tourism board, when the temple's original Chinese-style lions were damaged in 1960, the mason hired to replace them specialized in Western-style stone lions.
Fun for all
Hiking is definitely not the only reason to see Lamma Island. An hour's walk from Yung Shue Wan will bring you to a fine beach, Hung Shing Yeh Beach, which, although small, offers great facilities. The sand is soft with a hint of golden hue, and you can run along the beach in bare feet without worrying about stepping on glass or rocks.
Under the autumn sun, the water is cooler than in the summer, so swimming later in the day can offer warmer waves. For those who don't like swimming, the beach is a perfect place to simply bathe in the sun. This time of year, the temperature is not too warm, but the sun is still strong enough to catch a tan. Shady spots are abundant under nearby trees, which offer an ideal place to read your favorite book or take a nap.
There are also barbecue areas on one side of the beach. If you crave a little noise on this tranquil island, why not throw a barbecue party? Bring some food, beers and a good mood. Clinking bottles and enjoying the sound of meat and vegetables sizzling over the fire while kicking back with family or friends will deliver unforgettable moments for any tourist.
For those who are interested in history, the Kamikaze Cave, a strategic stronghold for Japan's Hong Kong-based 'kamikaze team' during World War II, is a must-see. The cave was used to conceal speedboats to be deployed on suicide missions against Allied shipping efforts. It's hard to imagine that the Lamma Island of today once witnessed such violent events.
Indulge your taste buds
Lamma Island is not only famous for its greenery, it is also well known for its seafood restaurants, many of which have huge fish tanks in front, filled with live menu offerings. Those who prefer not to pick out a live fish from these tanks will be happy to know that most menus are in both Chinese and English, making it easy to order favorite dishes without the guilt.
Various types of incredibly fresh fish, prawns, lobster, scallops and crabs are available on the island. I am big fan of scallops, having grown up by the sea, and was delighted that in addition to offering traditional scallops with garlic and vermicelli, island cooks present this ingredient with fermented soybeans.
Though travelers hail the local seafood as delicious and reasonably priced, I found it to be a little expensive, but this doesn't detract from the experience since it's nearly impossible to have a bad meal there. Cheaper options are available in smaller joints if you don't mind a humbler atmosphere.
Locally made tofu jelly is a must-try for any tourist to the island. At less than HK$10, you can't beat the price for this tasty treat. Another wonderful option is purchasing some fresh fish from the local market and taking yourself to the beach for a seafood cookout.
Talking to locals, even if you speak only a little Cantonese, can help you achieve a more authentic experience.
Rules of thumb
Getting there:
The most convenient way to get to Lamma Island is by ferry. You can take a bus or the metro to Central Station and then walk down to the pier. Ferries for Lamma Island leave from pier No.4, starting early in the morning for those interested in a full day of hiking and relaxing on this breathtaking island.
Since there are two piers on Lamma Island, Yung Shue Wan and Sok Kwu Wan, it's good to plan ahead for how you want to spend your day. If you want to start out with shopping and restaurants, go to Yung Shue Wan. But if you prefer a quieter arrival, Sok Kwu Wan is a better choice.
When to go:
If you plan a long vacation on the island, you can go anytime you like, but be sure to arrive before sunset to avoid any trouble finding your way around the town in search of hotels or a guest house.
For those who prefer a day trip, starting out early is strongly recommended.
What to taste:
Seafood is a must-try, though prices have been soaring with recent inflation. Typical choices like lobster, shrimp and scallops are always going to hit the spot, but be sure to branch out and try new things while you're there.
What to buy:
Postcards on the island's history and little seashells make very good gifts. If you'd like to bring a taste of Lamma Island back home, buy shrimp sauce or starfish to use later in soup.
