Mt. Taibai is well known among outdoor sports enthusiasts in China. The mountain stands nearly 4,000 meters above sea level and serves as a boundary line between China's North and South. The climate is unique: here it snows in June. A 150-kilometer trekking trail makes the mountain one of the best routes for intermediate trekking in the country.
Basic facts of Mt. Taibai
The Qinling Mountain Range in the south of Shaanxi Province serves as a boundary line between North and South China. Mt. Taibai, its main peak, towers 3,767 meters above sea level. It is covered by snow all year round, and features a unique climate, soil, and vegetation.
The Mt. Taibai Nature Reserve touches three counties-Taibai, Zhouzhi, and Meixian-and covers an area of 56,325 hectares. Its complicated environment and special geographical location make it a gathering place for various species of plants and animals, some of which are under state protection, such as the golden monkey, antelope, black bear, golden pheasant, red-chested pheasant, and blood pheasant.
Itineraries
According to our plan, we would start from the Old County Seat and travel to
Daye Lake through Baxian Terrace, and then move downhill at Yingge Town. Stretching 150 kilometers, this is the longest trekking route on Mt. Taibai.
Day One: Xi'an-Zhouzhi-Houzhenzi-the Old County Seat
We rushed to the station to catch the long-distance bus to the Old County Seat before 10 am as soon as we arrived at Xi'an, the capital of Shaanxi Province. The bus cost 100 yuan for a ride to Houzhenzi.
We met our tour guide at Houzhenzi, and took a bus to the Old County Seat. We paid 100 yuan for the tour guide mainly for our safety, because mountain torrents are quite frequent along the way, and having an experienced guide can help newcomers avoid trouble. We passed through the Qinling Ridge, the divide of China's North and South. We stayed overnight in the Old County Seat, a small cluster of houses with only seven families. The accommodation was not as good as we had expected.
Day Two: The Old County Seat-Dudu Gate-Temple to Taibai-Daping-Old Temple
It didn't take us too long to look around the Old County Seat, and we soon started trekking through the Dudu Gate. There was a large bamboo grove in front of the Temple to Taibai, and we had our lunch at Daping.
The journey after lunch was mainly through the Quaternary Glaciers and a vast expanse of rocks. We advanced carefully, looking for signs made by those who had come before us.
The Old Temple is a small, neglected wooden structure. We didn't camp there because it looked ready to fall down at any time. In front of the temple was a path leading to a mountain brook with fine-quality, drinkable water.
Day Three: Old Temple-Memorial Temple to a General-Temple to the Thunder God-Horse-Riding Ridge-Baxian Terrace
This is the longest and most dangerous section of the journey, with the most beautiful natural scenery.
We started at 7 am. Taking a little rest at the Memorial Temple to a General, we ventured among the Quaternary Glaciers and walked along Horse-Riding Ridge. We were lucky enough to get a panoramic view of the Giant Panda Nature Reserve, over a ridge that is often shrouded by fog.
There was no discernable path on Horse-Riding Ridge, so we closely followed our tour guide.
"Try to find the rocks erected along the roadsides if you are lost," the guide reminded us.
Baxian Terrace is the summit of Mt. Taibai. The wind was extremely strong. We stayed overnight in a small temple on the mountaintop, cautious to avoid anything that could catch fire.
Day Four: Baxian Terrace-Daye Lake-Lesser Wengong Temple-Shepherd Temple-Mingxing Temple-Doumu Palace
We trekked down the hillside carefully because it was very slippery with rocks. Those who could hardly make it went back to Tangyu Valley through the Lesser Wengong Temple.
We were deeply impressed by blooming azaleas in front of the Mingxing Temple and a sea of clouds over Doumu Palace.
Doumu Palace was guarded by a Taoist monk, who lived a hard life there. We gave him some money, something like 50 yuan. "I know a bit about martial arts," he told us during the night we stayed.
Day Five: Doumu Palace-Great Hall-Camel-Shaped Tree-Shangbaiyun-Chaihuping-Yingge Town
It took us longer to pass through the valley, but the journey was not difficult. We enjoyed wild fruits along the way.
We took a bus to Meixian County at the entrance of Yingge Town, and transferred to another bus to Xi'an.
Gear
Waterproof coat, long pants, shoes for mountaineering, backpack, sleeping bag, gas oven, intercoms, and a windproof tent.
Budget
About 300 yuan/person (to start from and return to Xi'an)
Precautions
1. Please protect the environment of the Mt. Taibai Nature Reserve.
2. There are many wild animals on the mountain. If you come across a large animal, don't move until it's out of your sight.
3. Most of the so-called temples are old and shabby. So don't expect to stay there overnight.
4. A group of trekkers should be at least four. A tour guide, which costs 50 yuan a day, is strongly suggested.