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Wild at Heart


9-Aug-2002 -
Unwilling to abide the strict itineraries of organized tours, a new breed of traveler is emerging in China: the backpacker. Once viewed with disdain, camping out is in with the new middle-class. Herded on and off an air-conditioned tour buses, dragged around as many pyramids, parthenons and pagodas as possible, has left many a tourist in a foul mood. But some have seen the light, and are seeking alternatives to traditional tour groups. "We want time to meet the locals. To savor the places we visit. Most of all we want our freedom," says outdoorsman Chen Shaoli who is a sales manager at local company. Chen, 30, was an early convert to the backpacking -- China's latest travel trend. While in college, he already wandered through Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region for a month. "One of the main reasons I go into the wilderness is for escape: escape from the busy highways, crowded shops -- and escape from time. In the wilderness, I let my mind run free," he says. "I've found over the years that the most beautiful spots often lie in the most perilous places, locations where package tours rarely go.'' Backpacking is relatively new in modern China. For a long time it was seen as an eccentric activity -- something only nomads and hobos could derive pleasure from. While there are no concrete numbers on the number of Chinese roughing it, the indicators, such as the number of small, especially camping shops in the city, suggest it's very popular indeed. Shanghai alone has more than a dozen backpacking clubs, complete with their own Websites. Places like the Whitewave Outdoor Club, the Smiling Travel Club and UU72 say that their target market are young white collar workers who can afford to break away from the pack. Avid backpacker Wu Haobing, 28, who left a foreign IT company to set up an outdoor sports Website, www.hinomad.com, says that he has 4,000 registered users. An outdoor program organized by the Website attracted 1,000 participants. An online survey of registered users revealed that 70 to 80 percent have at least a college education and are earning more than 3,000 yuan (US$360) monthly, says Wu. Ten percent are making more than 10,000. In terms of professions, the bulk are lawyers, doctors, sales persons and IT professionals. "They spend all day in air-conditioned offices. They hardly ever have a chance to sweat. To some, sweating makes them feel alive,'' says Wu. So what does it take to be a backpacker? "t's not about knowing all about outdoor survival skills,'' says Wu, who has 10 years of backpacking experience. "It's the spirit of perseverance and love of nature that counts most. Other things can be picked up very quickly,'' Chen concurs. "Reflecting back on my life, I think the most important influence on my appreciation of the outdoors was my dad,'' Chen says, "As I was growing up, my father instilled in me a great respect for nature. Straight out of the womb, I was exposed to the outdoors. Photo albums hold countless pictures of me in my mom or dad's arms as we visited local parks to hike; and as soon as my legs could propel me, my father took me for two- or three-hour jaunts in the woods. "I love to watch clouds. Stress evaporates on the top of the mountain,'' he adds, pointing to a photo taken on a snow-capped mountain in Chengdu, Sichuan Province. When Chen first began venturing out into the wilderness 10 years ago, he says that everyone he met on the road assumed that he must be Taiwanese or Japanese -- that's how rare it was to see a mainland Chinese backpacker. "Now you come across backpackers from every part of the country,'' he says. Before getting married, Chen always traveled alone. "I go when and where I want to. My experiences are never hampered by a schedule. I get the full impact of both the problems as well as the pleasures. "Yet, for me, traveling solo doesn't mean being alone. Meeting new people along the way has got to be one of the ultimate joys of the journey. So while I relish my solo status, I always work hard at making connections on route,'' he laughs. Marriage -- to a fellow backpacker -- hasn't tamed his sense of adventure. Chen's next goal is to conquer the Alps, although his wife says she'll sit this one out: while he conquers the mountains, she plans on conquering the cities of Europe, steeped in their rich history and culture. Backpacking is not for men only. Su Wei, 28, is self-employed and far from a hardened backpacking veteran. But she is passionate about what she enjoys most about backpacking: the increased choices and freedom of backpacking -- and the economy. "There is a premium travel route available online to Qinghai, Tibet and Yunnan, which only costs 8,000 yuan for 45 days,'' she says. Cost aside, what keeps backpackers coming back is often the stunning scenery, unspoiled by exhaust-belching tour buses and hoardes of tourists. "You can spend an hour staring at a fiery sunset or an extra hour in a warm sleeping bag on a cold morning. The luxury of time soothes the mind. The luxury of not having to worry about every second,'' Su reminisces over the journey to Qinghai. "When we arrived, it started to rain. I stayed awake overnight praying for a clear bright day. The next day, the sun was beginning to peek out over the horizon, split by a natural elevation to my right. The sight left me in rapture.'' To experience sights -- and rapture -- like that does involve risk, however. Backpacking is certainly no picnic, and life-threatening situations can happen. But there is plenty of advice and coaching available from helpful outdoor magazines and Websites that tackle the tough questions. They offer tips, inspirations, trip reports, reflections, and anecdotes.
9-Aug-2002 -

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