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The MD82 leaned over a bit and the air pressure building up in my ears began recording our descent. Outside the window to my left, a thick, heavy quilt of clouds gave way to an ever clearer landscape of dark green mountains. Minutes later, I located a huge clear-cut opening in the mountain screen. That must be Tianyan Cave (the Eye of the Heaven), one of the landmarks of Zhangjiajie, my destination of many years' longing. But my first encounter with this well publicized tourist city was a little disappointing. No sooner had I walked out of the terminal than I found myself surrounded by several taxi drivers, whose excitement at what appeared to be an easy prey was hardly conceivable. After several rounds of bargaining, I was led into a decrepit, blue car. With sharp bursts of engine noise, I was on my way to the city proper. The city streets were wide, but muddy because of a recent storm mingled with accumulated dust. This small city of 70,000 people is a little more than 10 years old, and still resembles a giant construction site. Old, shabby houses were being torn down to make way for modern buildings. Motorcycles darting here and there, missing collisions by a hair's breadth, test the visitors' nerves. "Not what you expected?" asked the taxi driver, apparently aware of my disappointment. "Go into the mountains. Believe me, all the best things on earth are over there." His words proved true the next day. After about one hour of driving on the mountain highway, I found myself in a fairyland. Almost without warning, the appalling screen-like peaks, running streams, and chirping of the birds were taking my breath away. I couldn't help but feel a sense of awe at the wonders of nature. Instinctively, I began to recall from my memories the best scenery I had either visited or appreciated from travel books: Huangshan, Yellow Stone, and the Great Smoky? Zhangjiajie has them all. Zhangjiajie is located in the northwestern part of Hunan Province in Central China and is in the waist of the Wuling Mountains. Billions of years ago, it was a vast ocean. Countless animal and botanical debris gathered on the sea bed to eventually form hard rocks. Due to movement of the earth's crust, this part of the continent arched up, and the water receded. Due to internal and external pressures, the rocks broke up. After millions of years of weathering, Zhangjiajie was left with more than 3,000 peaks of various unearthly shapes, caverns, rivers, lakes and caves. It is almost a universal phenomenon that natural beauties well preserved today were often the least desired habitat for humans in history. Historically, Zhangjiajie was a place of isolation. Just as one Chinese old saying goes: The sky is high and the emperor far away. It's no wonder that this place had been notoriously associated with stories of outlaws and bandits. Unlike many other scenic spots in China, where the footprints of the poets, artists and celebrities have become part of their attractions, Zhangjiajie is free from all of these earthly "glories." Although many of the local people may talk about this in an apologetic manner, I personally consider it as one of its great advantages. There is at least one thing: you are no longer compelled to follow the scenic lines of those celebrities. It was not until the late 1970s that local residents began to realize what a rare natural treasure they had. Intensive publicity campaigns for the protection and development of Zhangjiajie were conducted. In 1982, Zhanjiangjie was approved by the State as China's first national forestry park; and 10 years later, the major scenic zone of Wulingyuan was inscribed on the World Heritage List by UNESCO. One of the cream scenic spots in Zhangjiajie is Huanshizhai--the Golden Lion Peak. This steep mountain peak, more than 1,300 meters above the sea level, is a three-hour climbing effort; but the rewards of discovery on the way may become your life-long memories. Among the woods and rocks, you may encounter a wide range of wild animals rarely seen elsewhere. For instance, the baby fish, often found in the clear creeks, got its name because it produces sounds like the cries of babies. The baby fish is now an endangered species under state protection. You may also be approached by a monkey who stares at you out of curiosity for a strange creature called human. It's also likely you will see snakes coiled up in the grass. Don't scream, because you may scare them. However, for visitors like me who are either not good, patient climbers, or are on a tight schedule, the cable way is a convenient and safe choice. Riding in the cable car, you can enjoy the peaks and clouds passing by like color slides. Once on top of the peak, you will have an idea what a sea of stone peaks may look like, and you will truly understand what the color of the sky is, and what is meant by clean, fresh air. Instantly, you forget all the worldly worries: the stock market, the bills, the bureaucrats and the ugliness of your boss. But there is one thing I must warn you: don't forget to watch your steps. By this time, you may feel like having a break. The teahouse right on top of the mountain is where you need to visit. The two-story tea house built in traditional Tujia style is a scene in itself. It serves a kind of special tea called Leicha prepared with local tea, ginger and spring water. You may not feel the magic power of the tea as claimed by the waiters, but sipping a cup of hot tea while enjoying the beauties of the nature is certainly refreshing. If you're unlucky and miss the beauty of Huangshizhai because of bad weather, you still have a chance to make up by climbing the Tianzishan Mountains, where the peaks are even more alien and spectacular. I can give you an idea of the shapes of the peaks by simply mentioning some of the peaks' names, such as Fairy Maiden Presenting a Flower, Emperor's Writing Brush and Immortal Bridge. Stay longer if you have time because of the scenes are for ever changing. Zhangjiajie's fame does not come solely from its natural wonders. The unique culture and customs of the local ethnic groups are also special attractions. The Zhangjiajie area is the home for more than 20 ethnic groups including Tujia, Bai and Miao. The architecture, food, artifacts and folk dances are definitely things visitors can't afford to miss. Many local folk performances can be appreciated along the way and visitors are welcome to participate. One of the most common performances is the singing of Tujia folk love songs, which are so lively and expressive in both melody and lyrics. Most of the love songs are in antiphonal form. One popular song goes like this: "Rich soil does not need fertilizer, Lovers don't need a match-maker. A match-maker spoils true love, Because she is a gossiper. According to the Tujia tradition, love-songs are the first step to winning the heart of your love. However, the fact you don't have a nice voice and don't know how to sing an antiphonal song does not mean you don't have a chance to win the favor of a beautiful Tujia girl. On my visit, I got such a lucky strike. At one performing spot, I was attracted to a performance of the traditional Tujia wedding ceremony. The Tujia girls playing the brides were in full wedding costumes, and the bridegrooms were to be selected from the audience. While I was busy behind my camera, thinking of getting some outstanding pictures for my travel story, I suddenly felt something was put on top of my head -- none other than the wedding hat for the bridegroom. Cheered on by the audience, I was cloaked in a red wedding robe and "kidnapped" onto the stage. The bride took up my hand and the wedding ceremony started. Like a puppet, I was totally at the command of the escort girls: one bow of respect to heaven, one bow to the earth, and one bow to the parents. Finally I was led to a private chamber to have a moment of togetherness with my "bride." Here came the bad news and the good news. The bad news: I was told by the bride that it was the Tujia tradition that the newly-weds should exchange wedding gifts with each other, and I had nothing handy. The good news: that it was only a performance, and a small tip proved an easy, happy solution. Major Scenic Spots in Zhangjiajie Huangshizhai (The Golden Lion Peak) Jinbianxi (The Golden-Whip Valley): A 3-km gallery of peaks, forests, springs and waterfalls. Tianzishan (The Mountains of the Heavenly King): Slim and steep mountain peaks, clouds and mist. Huanglongdong (The Yellow Dragon Cave) Baofenghu (The Treasure Peak Lake): A mountain lake embraced by peaks, known for its tranquillity and clean water. Maoyanhe (The Maoyan River): Rafting and water-splashing battles between tourists are most exciting. Xiuhua Shanguan (The Xiuhua Tujia Family Museum): The place where you can get a taste of the Tujia folk culture. Best Seasons to Visit: All year around. In spring, the fresh mountain greens and the running streams are incomparable; In summer, the cool temperature offers an escape from the summer heat. In autumn, the mountains are in their most diverse colors, and in winter, the snow-clad peaks are not to be missed. Food: No McDonalds, no Coca-Cola, only Tujia local delicacies. How to Get There: Direct passenger trains and flights from major Chinese cities. The city has recently opened direct flights to Macao and Hong Kong.